Review
I have known about the Fish Fry at the Laurel for a long time, but for one reason or another simply never gave it the time of day. Mostly it was due to the fact that all reviews I have read about the place have been mixed (including those from close personal friends). Some say that the Fish Fry is out of this world, while others claim that the place is a dump and smells like a sewer. Rather than risk my Friday Fish Fry on a questionable place, I have always managed to come up with other alternatives. Well, I am here to tell you now; I made a mistake in putting this one off. The Laurel really does have a GREAT Fish Fry.
My Fish Fry friendly crew and I pulled in to the Laurel just after 8pm, and I was pleased to see that the place was still pretty busy (a sign that the Fish Fry is sought after). We gave our name to the hostess and grabbed a beer or two after she gave us the "5 minute wait" routine. 10 minutes or so later she found us at the bar and escorted us to our table in the "dining room." We sat, sipped our beers, one of us spilled his Old Fashioned all over his lap, and a few minutes later the waitress made her appearance. The crew pretty much all went for cod - although Paul had to be guilted into it after trying to order a veggie burger. I went for the $12 walleye plate and was glad I did.
The fish came about 15 minutes or so after our orders went in and was nice and hot when served. I tore into the plate even though the delicious cheese curds that had come beforehand filled me up somewhat. The walleye fillets were not huge, but since there were three of them it more than made up for any lack in size. The fish was simply outstanding. It was incredibly light and flaky although some grease did appear about ½ way through. I made sure to rotate them to keep it from settling which was a smart move on my part. This rotation helped to keep the batter in good shape and thankfully so since it was so tasty. This batter was well seasoned and really gave the walleye something hang its hat on, it was divine. Looking back on it, this may actually be the best walleye I have ever had, which is really saying something.
Reports around the table were that the cod was also very good, although I couldn't even stomach a single bite after polishing off my walleye and the 10 or so curds that proceeded it. The cousins of the curds - the crinkle cut fries - were also good, but nothing special even with the hint of season salt sprinkled across their exteriors.
The walleye was so flavorful that it was edible all by itself, but the tartar that accompanied it really put it over the top. It was nice and creamy with just a hint of relish, and while it was served in a tiny cup it still outlasted the walleye which in my book really says something about the quality of the fish.
Putting the finishing touches on the meal was some zest-less slaw and a forgotten roll. The slaw was unremarkable and the roll, while I thought it was decent, was hardly touched by anyone at the table except for yours truly. Meh.
The Laurel clearly draws a local crowd; from the Metro bus driver to the UW professor on the down low, all classes were represented. From what I could tell, pretty much everyone in attendance was there for the Fish Fry and I can't say I blame them. The walleye was simply great and we will definitely be back for it sometime soon. I guess it just goes to show you, you can't believe everything you hear; sometimes you need to try things for yourself and form your own opinion. Here is ours - The Laurel Tavern has a kickass Fish Fry. Try it, you won't be disappointed.
For starters, the Laurel is one of those neighborhood bars that clearly appreciates their regulars, but it can come at the expense of those they don't see every day. On our recent visits we were able to procure a barstool instantly only to sit and wait for several minutes for the bartender to come over even though we caught his eye almost immediately. Eventually we'll get a beer and an order in, but it's almost as if they want you to prove your worth by not getting fed up and walking out first. Good thing we're stubborn when it comes to our fish.
The Laurel serves an ample amount of fish on Friday and it takes a good 15 minutes or so to get your grub even if you don't have a big group. In the meantime your soup/salad option will arrive and help to pass the time. The slaw is rich, creamy, and zesty, making the homemade mix too tasty to pass up for clam chowder or a house salad (although many still do).
It's hard to not down the entire big bowl of slaw before the fish arrives, but if you're like us you try to save some of it to have with the rest of the meal. The main focus of said meal is the baby pike that takes up about ¾ of the large dinner plate. The three pieces of flaky fish feature an airy batter that practically floats off the fish. Its mild texture and flavor complement the silky, baby walleye perfectly pulling it into impeccable balance.
The Laurel's specialty spud is hash browns O'Brien, but we had fries on the mind. The well-salted, well-fried, crinkles arrived in a big portion and were just what you'd expect them to be. No complaints here. A thick and zippy tartar also avoided ridicule as it flattered the fish just as it should.
Dinner rolls are a dime a dozen and while the Laurel goes beyond the regular potato roll it's not all that far beyond. It's just fine and we'll happily take that.
The Laurel Tavern is a pretty great local spot and has some of the best fish on the west side in our opinion. While we were disappointed that the bluegill was gone, and that the hospitality is lacking, it's not near enough for us to write them off. Overall, we continue to highly recommend this Fish Fry and you'll likely catch us chowing down on Monroe again before long.
First things first, the bluegill at the Laurels is eeekspensive, coming in at a whopping $15.50! That said, the portion is on the large side (9 fat pieces), but that is still getting up there. Before the fish comes around, a cup of the Laurel's homemade slaw shows up looking like it's all that...and it is. This stuff is rich and creamy, and incredibly tasty. Everything in it is in perfect balance and you'd be hard pressed to find many better slaws out there. There is also an option to substitute a cup of clam chowder or a salad, but those who know stick with the slaw.
After the slaw showed it took a good 15 minutes for the fish to arrive, but it was as hot as can be when it did. The bluegill was superb and featured a breading was on the thick side as far as breadings go, but had a ton of flavor. The copious seasoning suppressed the bluegill taste for the most part, but still resulted in a harmonious flavor sensation.
There are a few different tater options at the Laurel and I settled on the regular hash browns over the French fries or the hash browns O'brien (the Obies have cheese and green pepper instead of cheese and onion and I wanted nothing to do with the green peppers). The regular hash browns came in a regular portion and were well fried. The thick shreds appeared to be grated in-house and tasted fine, but were nothing really special.
Well-seasoned fish usually needs a sassy tartar to balance it out and that is just what the Laurel delivers. Their thick and creamy version complements the bluegill to a 'T' and really spread the taste sensation across the palate.
Last on the list was a fresh and crusty roll that improved upon a standard dinner roll, but not by much.
I had a sneaking suspicion that the Laurel would do bluegill justice and I have to say I was dead on. While it is super expensive, it is pretty much justified and I didn't leave felling ripped off or anything close to it. Overall, we highly recommend this Fish ry and certainly won't hesitate to drop another 62 quarters on it. It's well worth every Washington.
The dining room at the Laurel is always packed on Friday nights and there is almost no way you are getting in without waiting for a while, even if you show up by 5:30 like we did. On Fridays they have walleye and cod available, and this was a walleye week for me. Despite the fact they were busy the kitchen clearly knows the drill and turns things over in a flash. For starters there is a soup/salad/slaw option with any of the fish and I went for the chowder which was creamy and balanced. While I would like to see more clam (I think we all would) there were at least some pieces present. The fish followed in short order and looked quite intriguing.
Now, I don't work at the Laurel, I have never seen their kitchen, and I don't know their business practices, but the walleye seemed a little fishy to me today (no pun intended). The usual way walleye is served is a single large fillet from an adult fish. Such fillets average around 8-10 inches in length, are shaped like a warped isosceles triangle, and tend to curl in from the sides when fried. I have come to expect "baby pike" from the Laurel which are served as three smaller fillets that tend to curl from end to end. These babies didn't carry the signature musk that an adult walleye does and in all honesty had the look and flavor of pike-perch (which is often substituted for the local species). Even so, the beer batter that encased the fillets was superb, boasting lots of flavor and an excellent crunch, so, while it may or may not have been actual walleye (I'll give them the benefit of the doubt and say it was) it was still quite enjoyable.
The side of note at the Laurel are the hash browns O'brien which are just your basic shreds topped with Swiss cheese and a sautéed onion and green pepper mixture. Since I wasn't feeling the peppers I just ordered mine regular with the Swiss and some raw onion. It turned out to be a very nice rendition with delightfully crispy edges and ooey gooey insides. Their zippy tartar added a distinctive allure to the smooth fish while a funky and dense multi-grain roll was a definite step above the basic bun.
I know, I know, there are a lot of bars in Madison and they can't all make headlines, but for once it would nice to see a place like the Laurel get some love. Sure, they don't give you free beer on your birthday or have a swanky State Street address, but they do have good food and a down home vibe that I for one appreciate more than either of those other things. Overall, we recommend this Fish Fry and think the Laurel is one of the more overlooked establishments in our fair city, especially when it comes to food.
Like any good neighborhood bar, The Laurel features fish on Friday that you can't get any other day of the week. They trot out the usual suspects of cod and walleye, but do a fine job with both of them. This time around I chose the walleye which comes in at a reasonable $13.00 - just a couple bucks more than the baked or fried cod.
While we waited for our food my side of slaw showed up and the festivities began. The homemade slaw was creamy and unique, nothing less than superb. There was something special about it (garlic?) that made it almost irresistible. Perhaps it was just the anticipation for the fish, but whatever it was the slaw spanned the gap splendidly.
The headliner arrived booth-side within 10 minutes or so of the slaw and looked just right. While the three medium-sized walleye fillets looked superb they were slightly different from what I was expecting. The walleye I remember had a lighter textured breading that practically flaked right off. This rendition was slightly thicker, but equally spicy and delicious. It clung to the fish with force making sure every bite of the wonderful walleye was coated. Despite the fact the portion was princely I put down every last bite without thinking twice about it.
When I asked for hash browns with cheese and onion I meant just that - hash browns with cheese and onion. Apparently what the waitress heard was "Hash browns O'brien" which do contain said cheese and onion, but also add some salsa to the mix that totally alters the flavors. While the salsa wasn't expected, it wasn't necessarily a bad thing, but I think I'd still prefer the plain C&O and would specify it as such next time.
Bolstering an already star-studded cast was The Laurel's homemade tartar sauce. While it arrived in a standard Solo cup the thick and creamy sauce was anything but ordinary. It blended perfectly with the walleye putting forth a new fantastic flavor which neither could have achieved on its own.
The Laurel's bread of choice are the little football-shape loaves that have a crusty exterior. If nothing else, they are a step up from the regular round-top-square-sided dinner roll, which is worth an extra point in our book.
The Laurel isn't exactly a huge place, and since they have a steady stream of regulars you can expect a short wait if you arrive at 7pm like we did. Luckily, it will be extremely tolerable, as the bartenders are attentive and hospitable. Overall, we highly recommend the walleye Fish Fryat The Laurel Tavern, and that's really all we have to say about that.