Fish Type: Lake Perch Price: $13.00
Overall, I would barely recommend this fish fry.
| Fish Score: Good French Fry Score: Good Tartar Score: Good Bread Score: Excellent Miscellaneous Score: Good |  |
If there ever was a place that actually warranted photos it just might be the Old Fashioned. We have been to the OF many times and have to say it is one of the neater establishments around, and for a time they rocked one of the photo-friendliest Fish Frys in the city. Lately we have noticed a decline in the overall food quality so when Jer, Paul and I pulled into the downtown speakeasy for a lunch time bite we weren’t sure what to expect, but suspected the meal would be above average, at the least.
The “Salt Mine” throws a bit of a twist on their regular routine during lunch on Friday as you place your order at the bar and pay up-front (I assume this is to expedite the process so busy Square-goers can get in and out as fast as possible). It did seem to alleviate some of the pressure on the wait staff which is a good thing (if you have ever been here on a Friday you know what I’m talking about). I put in for my $13 plate of perch as did Jer, while Mr. Paul went for the cod. We sat around, talked over the folly of local radio stations, and about 15 minutes later had our food.
Now, the lake perch at the OF used to (and I emphasize USED TO) be the absolute best in the city. It had something extra that no other perch could match and stood alone at the top. Well, I’m not sure what has happened (new cook? new recipe?), but it just isn’t the same. The fish was hot when served, but not steaming hot like it should be. The 3 butterflies were fair sized, but certainly could have been larger especially for the hefty $13 price tag. The once ultra-flavorful batter that made this fish truly unique has really lost some zest. While it is still light and crumbly it just doesn’t have the extra oomph that it once did, and a couple pieces actually tasted a little sour to me. Overall, it is still decent, but nowhere near as good as it used to. What exactly is going on here? I wondered.
Working in conjunction with the fish, and making it more edible, was the adequately portioned tartar. I say adequate because a couple more fillets would have overpowered the caper-laced goo, but since there was only the three tiny butterflies, it sufficed. The mayo-heavy sauce was actually quite good even though I am not a fan of capers. They were so interspersed they were practically unnoticeable.
Under the perch sat an absolute mountain of matchstick fries. While I like a hearty portion, this was almost out of control. The fries were hot (again, not scalding like I prefer), but I would gladly have substituted a handful of the overly salted potatoes for another couple perch fillets.
One place you are always going to score highly with MFF is if you serve rye bread with your Fish Fry, and the Old Fashioned does. I don’t particularly like rye, but since it is the traditional choice I give credit where credit is due. The OF rye is toasted, complete with grill marks that may, or may not, be genuine. Either way it is rye, which is excellent. The homemade poppyseed slaw that came along for the journey was also excellent and had a serious kick that many a good slaw is lacking.
Oh, Old Fashioned, what is one to do with you? Such great atmosphere, but what has become of your Fish Fry? The once delicious fish is no longer so; it is certainly passable, but we have come to expect the best from you. For $13 can’t you do anything better for us? It seems easy enough; just do what you once did and we’ll all be happy. Overall, I will still recommend your Fish Fry, but it can no longer stand on fish alone. The traditional sides (none of them great, but all acceptable) are what is keeping you afloat. How can this be? We once raved about your deliciousness and now can only say that your Fish Fry is adequate. Rather than running to you we are looking past you for Fish Fry reminiscent of what you once where. The mighty have certainly fallen, and even if we were the picture taking type, we probably would have passed up the opportunity to do so this trip.
What happened to the Old Old Fashioned? We want it back.
www.theoldfashioned.com
23 N. Pinckney Street
Madison, WI 53703
(608) 310-4545
