Review
There is an old saying that says you shouldn't judge a book by its cover. While that may sound a little clichΓ© at times, other times it really does hold true. Case and point: Kavanaugh's Esquire Club on Madison's east side. While the place may look a little sketchy on the outside, it is their inner beauty that steals the show - namely their All You Can Eat ocean perch.
Now, you may not know exactly what an ocean perch is, and you probably shouldn't even care, but if you do, the answer varies depending on which source you get your info from. As far as we're concerned it is an ocean fish (sometimes called Rose Fish) that falls on the fish deliciousness hierarchy somewhere between the disgusting Pollock and the delectable cod. Thus, it should just taste okay, but there is something in the air (or the breading) at the Esquire.
While we may never be sure how they turn trash to treasure the OP at the Esquire is simply superb. While the fish itself is a little "fishy" tasting it is combined with a deliciously light and crumbly batter that overcomes any less than desirable elements. When this mixture meets the near perfect tartar sauce a euphoric taste experience is achieved. For $11.50 it is a fair value, and since it is AYCE if for one reason or another you do get a truly sub-par piece of fish you can simply pass it over and grab another, but I have to say, of all the times I have been here I can barely remember any sub-par pieces - The Esquire is consistently that good. While we usually don't care for "assembly line" style Fish Frys, we can look past it at the Esquire since the quality doesn't suffer as it has a tendency to do at other places. They have to meet the demand somehow, and they do it with aplomb.
Not all places include fries with their All You Can Eat Fish Fry, but since the Esquire is slingin' the simple crinkles they have no problem with it. While the standard spuds aren't special they are perfectly fried and adequately offset the fish top the very end.
When taken in the context of the meal the sides at a Fish Fry rarely shine. In general you should be here for the fish so if anything else goes above and beyond it is basically a bonus. The Esquire is all about the bonus and their sides really shine especially the creamy, zesty coleslaw. The sliced rye loaf adds the finishing touch to this most traditional of all Fish Frys.
Inside Tip: Pace yourself...
Description: Always keep in mind that this is an All You Can Eat Fish Fry and fish is always better when scalding hot. Thus, when they bring the first plate you don't need to take five pieces when you won't be able to get to them all right away. Start with three, then when the refill comes grab a couple more. The savvy fish eater will even ask for the re-up right away to avoid any downtime.
*The Esquire Club is in Madison, and there is no substitute.
Next:Smelt at the North Bristol Sportsman's Club.
Previous: Haddock at Fitz's on the Lake.
It had been a while since we had the lake perch at the Esquire, and since we were there for lunch, it made sense to pass on the AYCE and branch out with some of its freshwater brethren. While the Esquire is one of the few supper clubs that doesn't have a salad bar, they still give you a soup/salad option (even at lunch). The clam chowder that made its way to our table was homemade, and creamy, but didn't have much of the good stuff (that's clam in case you were wondering). It arrived at the same time as the huge loaf of real rye bread slices that were incredibly abundant and incredibly stanky.
Not long after polishing off the soup, the lake perch arrived, looking as unimpressive as ever. For your $12.50 you're only allotted four fillets, a handful of fries and a standard Solo of tartar. The perch was light and tasty, and featured the same breading that graces the ocean perch. While the muted breading really compliments the fishier OP, it really doesn't do much for the LP in comparison. To truly be effective it needs a little more seasoning, and while it was still appetizing it needed something more to take it over the top.
Even more unimpressive were the standard crinkle-cut fries. While the portion was adequate for lunch they were incredibly basic, and like the fish, when not served AYCE lose a lot of their luster.
Luckily, the Esquire is schooled in the sauce and their tartar was absolutely perfect. It was thick and creamy with a sweet zip that perks up even the most blandly breaded fish.
While we may come off a bit harsh in this review, it is just because the Esquire has set such a high standard that even they can't always reach it. Everything was still very good, but a shade below what we were expecting. Overall, we still highly recommend the lake perch at the Esquire Club, but will likely stick with the AYCE ocean perch from here on out.
This credo used to exemplify the Esquire as you could get plateful after glorious plateful for a mere nine bucks. Well, that was back in 2007, and since then the price has steadily increased. Today it rests at $10.75, and while that is still a fair price, it doesn't exactly blow our socks off like it once did. Knowing it would be a busy one, I made a reservation for our crew at the Sherman Ave staple for 8pm. Everyone was there a few minutes early, and within 15 minutes of the quoted time, our reservation was honored. We were ushered to the big table in the corner of the main dining room where we waited... and waited... and waited some more.
While we waited we took stock of the basket of mixed breads and big bowl of coleslaw on the table, and also noticed that there were no plates with which to eat them. We broke etiquette and tore into the bread anyway, enjoying the "radical" rye, and the "smooshed" white - the rye much more than the white. Eventually our waitress made her appearance, and we were ready for her; she bounced around the table taking order after order for the Esquire's AYCE ocean perch special. As soon as she was sure that we were mostly AYCErs she brought the plates over and let us at the slaw that smirked devilishly throughout our wait.
After being tempted by the slaw for so long, it was extra delicious, and seemed to have a little more pep than normal. It was extra thick and creamy, and clearly homemade. I enjoyed a hearty spoonful, and mere moments after it was finished the fish and fries appeared. The four huge family-style platters took up any remaining real estate on the table.
Since I was at the head I had first dibs on the fish and took a modest 5 pieces. A hefty handful of the crinkle cut fries followed them onto my plate as did a generous dollop of the Esquire's homemade tartar. I stared in, and am not sure I said another word until a refill was requested. I was in the zone. I plowed through my first helping of perch as the light and flaky fish went down easy. It had just the subtlest hint of "fish taste," but was adequately balanced by the well-seasoned, crumbly breading. When the second round of fish made an appearance I scored another couple of pieces, and finished my evening with one more as one plate number three. All rounds of fish were served phenomenally hot and tasted equally good. When it comes to AYCE Fish Fry, consistency counts, and the 'Squire has it in spades.
Since this is an AYCE affair you pretty much have to expect the standard crinkle cut fries, and that is exactly what you get. At the very least they were nice and hot and I would say just slightly above average. Whereas we splurged on three rounds of fish, the crinkles were limited to two and the second round was fried just a bit too long. Surprisingly, the two large cups of zesty tartar lasted all the way to the end, probably because the rich and creamy sauce can easily overpower the fish if overused.
I think it would be fair to say that everyone at our table got their $10.75 worth, and while I liked this Fish Fry a little bit more when it was only nine bucks I really can't complain too much. Everything was still fantastic (some slow service aside) and still a good deal at $10.75. Overall this Fish Fry is highly recommendable and remains one of the best in the Madison area.
Now, the Friday special of record at the 'squire is the AYCE ocean perch, and it's a doozy of a deal. It's not unusual for a gentleman to eat 10, 12, 15, or even 20 pieces of the finely cut fillets without thinking twice about it. Of course, we all know OP isn't "traditional" or necessarily "high quality" but who really cares when it tastes this good? Certainly not me. Since we came for lunch this Friday we decided to go for the cheaper, and seemingly more appropriately portioned $8.25 lunch special...that's a choice we wont be making again.
While the fish was still tasty, grease-free, and flaky, the portion was minuscule. Only four pieces of the perch were on the plate and they were tiny buggers to boot. While the were devoid of fishy tastes they were also devoid of satisfaction since they equated to four big bites, or eight small ones.
As the Esquire is essentially a supper club they serve the standard supper club style French fries. The portion was slightly better on this front although their shell shed the salt leaving the tubers are basic as can be.
Thick and creamy is the name of the tartar game when the subject is supper clubs and this sauce was as bold as they come. It effortlessly wrangled the perch and made it something more.
A couple squishy slices of real rye bread came on the side as if to say, "you think this Fish Fry isn't legit, well here's a traditional side for ya to prove you wrong." A thick and creamy slaw also did it's part to silence the critics with a little saccharine sweetness in a big old cup.
This is a tough one since this was basically the same Esquire experience we've always had, but just on a much smaller scale. The food was good, and so was the price, but there was just far too little fish to go around. Overall, we still recommend this Fish Fry, but will always go for the AYCE from now on, it's more than worth the extra few bucks.
We arrived at 8:30 and were told we would have to wait for 30 minuets or so, not bad I thought. We found some open spots around the bar and ordered a round of drinks. As the Old Fashioneds and beers were poured I looked around and noticed several upgrades to the dΓ©cor which were nice and didn't detract from the Supper Club atmosphere at all. However, the multitude of Iowa Hawkeye fans roaming around the restaurant may have. There was way too much black and yellow present and no where near enough red and white for my taste. Even with all these out-of-towners present no more than 15 minutes passed before our name was called and we headed to the dining room.
Our front-row-center table was awaiting our arrival and was stocked with some Supper Club staples including a queen-sized bowl with a king-sized portion of tartar. The sauce dangled over the edge and hung in mid air, precariously clinging only to its thick and creamy self. Our waitress was on us in an instant and grabbed our orders, two AYCE, one bacon wrapped tenderloin and one veggie pasta. As we waited we enjoyed some of the creamy, zesty coleslaw and a piece of room temperature pre-sliced French bread. The bread wasn't all that great but she did say we could have rye with the Fish Fry if we wanted. The ocean perch came about 15 minutes later and fresh from the fryer.
The OP, as always, was just great. While the fish itself is a little "fishy" tasting it is combined with a deliciously light and crumbly batter. When this mixture meets the near perfect tartar sauce a euphoric taste experience is achieved. For $10.25 you really aren't going to find a much better value than this. And since it is AYCE if for one reason or another you do get a sub-par piece of fish you can simply pass it over and grab another. Although I have to say, of all the times I have been there I can barley remember any sub-par pieces, the Esquire is consistently that good.
The crinkle cut fries that accompanied could have been hotter on the first round but were still very good overall. The second round that came were scalding but really not that much better. You can't get too excited about them, but they are pretty much what you should expect when AYCE is involved.
Overall this was another resounding success at the Esquire. The food was great, and the service was fast and friendly. When it comes right down to it the Esquire is offering a great AYCE Fish Fry at a great price. Sure, maybe ocean perch isn't the most "traditional" fish but I sure don't see a whole lot of places offering AYCE lake perch or bluegill and I have to imagine they would go broke pretty damn quick if they tried. As it stands the Esquire is easily a top 5 Madison area Fish Fry and a real deal especially if you are packing a BIG appetite.
This may be the only time we have been to the Esquire and the place was not packed. We were able to get five seats in a row at the bar which is pretty amazing and we only had to wait about 20 minutes for a table. Once we got seated the service was slightly slow but you have to expect that when you have a large group.
Our waitress was a friendly older lady who claimed to have been working at the Esquire for almost 30 years. You could tell this was the case because when it came time to order she immediately assumed we were all going with the AYCE Ocean Perch. While she was close, there were a few people in our party who wanted to branch out. We had one person order the fried Cod, two that ordered Lake Perch, and four that went for the AYCE.
The Ocean Perch, as always, was plentiful and delicious. Served so hot it is almost unbelievable. I think at least one person burned their mouth. The French fries were also spot on, crinkle cut and hot as can be. The tartar was plentiful as was the rye bread and coleslaw. There was also a whole tub of lemons at the table but I'm not sure I saw anyone actually grab one. I managed to sneak a piece of the cod as well; it was good but not as good as the Ocean Perch. It has a much softer, flaky texture which is more suited to a fork, while the OP comes in smaller pieces which are crisped up a little and should only be eaten with one's hands. Although there was some Lake Perch floating around the table I was unable to procure a piece but I'm not sure I could have even eaten one.
Overall I think Gabe had a great birthday dinner and everyone was sure to comment on how good their respective Fish Fry was. Apparently when you get the AYCE your only potato option is either a baked potato or French fries. Well, my friend Jer just had to have some hash browns with cheese and onions. Although they were two dollars extra he was sure to mention that it was well worth it and he would have been willing to pay up to $5 for hash browns that good.
The Esquire Club is one Fish Fry that you must try. It is everything a Fish Fry should be, without leaving a massive hole in your wallet.
This may be the only time we have been to the Esquire and the place was not packed. We were able to get five seats in a row at the bar which is pretty amazing and we only had to wait about 20 minutes for a table. Once we got seated the service was slightly slow but you have to expect that when you have a large group.
Our waitress was a friendly older lady who claimed to have been working at the Esquire for almost 30 years. You could tell this was the case because when it came time to order she immediately assumed we were all going with the AYCE Ocean Perch. While she was close, there were a few people in our party who wanted to branch out. We had one person order the fried Cod, two that ordered Lake Perch, and four that went for the AYCE.
The Ocean Perch, as always, was plentiful and delicious. Served so hot it is almost unbelievable. I think at least one person burned their mouth. The French fries were also spot on, crinkle cut and hot as can be. The tartar was plentiful as was the rye bread and coleslaw. There was also a whole tub of lemons at the table but I'm not sure I saw anyone actually grab one. I managed to sneak a piece of the cod as well; it was good but not as good as the Ocean Perch. It has a much softer, flaky texture which is more suited to a fork, while the OP comes in smaller pieces which are crisped up a little and should only be eaten with one's hands. Although there was some Lake Perch floating around the table I was unable to procure a piece but I'm not sure I could have even eaten one.
Overall I think Gabe had a great birthday dinner and everyone was sure to comment on how good their respective Fish Fry was. Apparently when you get the AYCE your only potato option is either a baked potato or French fries. Well, my friend Jer just had to have some hash browns with cheese and onions. Although they were two dollars extra he was sure to mention that it was well worth it and he would have been willing to pay up to $5 for hash browns that good.
The Esquire Club is one Fish Fry that you must try. It is everything a Fish Fry should be, without leaving a massive hole in your wallet.
When we got there we were seated pretty much immediately. The huge bowl of delicious tartar was awaiting our arrival, along with the large loaf of rye bread and the very cabbage-y (and kinda nasty) coleslaw. We both went for the AYCE eat Ocean Perch and it was on the table within 5 minutes or so.
Our waitress brought the Fish and the Fries out on one plate, truly a family style affair. The Fish was hot and delicious, as it always it. Ocean Perch does taste a little more ‘fishy’ than cod but the batter the Esquire uses only enhances this flavor. The fries were hot and crispy and just about what you would/should expect at a Fish Fry. After going through the first plate fairly easily my girlfriend I ordered ‘a couple more pieces’. Of course our waitress brings out another full plate of fish and fries, way more than we are prepared to eat at this point. The second plate could not have been hotter if they would have brought the fryer directly to our table. Truly amazing. We do our best but only get about half way through the second plate and call it quits.
The service is always good at the Esquire. I assume this is partially because almost everyone is ordering the Fish Fry and the kitchen is just hummin’. The fish is fantastic and there are always a lot of people hanging out in the bar and chatting over drinks after a good meal. The Esquire has the essence of a great Supper Club. On a Friday night in Madison it is one of, if not the best place to satisfy your need for a Fish Fry.
When we got inside we were told the wait would be about an hour (this was at 8 pm mind you). Knowing that the fish was well worth the wait I assured my companions the time would fly by. A large mug of Spotted Cow, and about 40 minutes later our name was called and we headed to our table. The time was at hand.
Our waitress, Brittni, was at the table almost instantly. She dropped off some menus and went to get us another round of drinks. For me there was no real reason to look at the menu, the only real option is the AYCE Ocean Perch. My girlfriend took a quick look but also quickly decided that the special was the way to go as did everyone else with us. When she returned with our drinks it was simple a matter of my friend blurting out ‘OP all around’ for our orders to be placed. I think we can safely say Brittni has worked a few of the Esquire Club’s Fish Fries, and she has it down pat.
For those who have never been to the Esquire, the special is served family style and comes out of the kitchen so hot it is almost unfathomable. I, of course, grab a piece, instantly chomp into it, and practically burn my face off - a true thing of beauty. The Ocean Perch is slightly fishy tasting but cooked so well that it only enhances the flavor. Once you get a taste for it, you just want more and more, and since there is no danger of running low you can sit back and really enjoy putting down piece after delicious piece.
The fries are served on a big plate, just like the fish and just as hot too. Crinkle cut and delicious, exactly what you should expect. The tartar sauce was also practically perfect; served family style as well, our dish was almost bone dry by the time our group of 4 finished our second plate of fish. Even the coleslaw at the Esquire is top notch which is waiting at the table for your party along with a large sliced roll of rye bread. Truly what a great Fish Fry is all about.
The Esquire is certainly a Classic Fish Fry. It would have been worth waiting the full hour, but we got seated in less than 40 minutes, which during this time of year is not bad at all. The service was stellar and of course the food was some of the best you are going to find. This may truly be the best Fish Fry in Madison, and that is saying something.
I haven't been to the Esquire since it changed ownership, then subsequently changed back, and I was curious to see if the old standard still applied...from all I could see (and taste) it does! The AYCE Ocean Perch is still the move at the Sherman Ave staple, but since we were there for lunch, and I knew dinner was in my future, I stuck with the $14 4-piece (which turned out to be the perfect portion).
At first blush I could tell this OP was a carbon copy of that in my memory. The fillets were fat and dense (almost heavy feeling). They were dusted by the 'squire's signature light and crumbly breading resulting in perfectly grease-free fish. This is a tried and true recipe that is about as consistent as any you'll find. And make no mistake about it, while the fish alone is good, it's taken to the highest of heights by the legendary tartar. Is this thick and zippy sauce the best fried fish accompaniment on the planet? I'm not sure I'd go that far, but I wouldn't cry fowl of anyone who did.
The fries are just your standard crinkles, but like the fish, fried to perfection. Two styles of oven-fresh bread come nestled in a basket and while the white looked divine the rye was simply radical. Rounding it all out was plenty of chin-dripping homemade coleslaw that was easy to enjoy but tough to stop eating.
Like most of Madison, I was saddened when I heard the Esquire had slipped under the regime change. But, like our fair city, I was equally enthusiastic when I heard the original owner said, screw that, not on my watch. Overall, we highly recommend this Fish Fry and can safely say the old Esquire is back (and let's hope it never leaves us again).