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Fish Type: Lake Perch     Price: $13.75

Overall, I would recommend this Fish Fry.

Fish Score: Good
Potato Score: Good
Tartar Score: Excellent
Bread Score: Good
Miscellaneous Score: Good

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Comment: Supper Clubs are all the rage. Well…maybe not ALL the rage, but they are having a bit of a renaissance. If you need proof just search for “Wisconsin Supper Clubs” or any permutation thereof and you’ll find books, documentaries, and lists of just about every supper club our fine state has to offer. All that said, I’m not sure the Capri is on any of those lists although it damn well should be.

The Capri in Columbus is as much as supper club as Ishnala, the Ding-A-Ling, or any other you can name, and of course their Friday special is composed of fish…even at lunchtime. There are “luncheon plates” galore as well as a non-plate special featuring cod. The lake perch luncheon runs $13.75, while the non-plate cod goes for a cool $9.25. We got one of each.

As we were the first patrons of the day our food came lickity-split since our most-friendly-of-waitresses had her eye on us. Of course, before the “real food” came a basket of bread did. This hamper was home to some dense white slices which weren’t bad, but didn’t taste real fresh. While it might well have just be the style it was not alluring at all, and essentially no better than a basic dinner roll. Oh well. The slaw also reared its head before the fish as was essentially the supper club standard - sliced to a middling thickness and set off with a basic creamy sauce. You know the stuff. It’s dece but nothing unexpected.

The “real food” was made up of four real yellow perch fillets which had a thick, but not-to-thick, beer batter. The creamy coating had a good flavor, but as is all too common with most batters on perch, it was all you could taste. This is why I like breading and usually pass on beer battered lake perch (because I want to taste the fish). Regardless, there was no grease present which was a small win for the average perch.

Since the Capri is a supper club you’d expect thick-cut battered French fries and they were indeed among the many options on the list. Our lot had a great crunch, and while they likely weren’t cut in-house both MFF Jr. and I could really have cared less.

Last on the list was some supper club standard tartar sauce. You know this stuff…it’s thick as the dickens and has a big bang, baby. It makes the beefy batter on the perch take heed with its pop and panache.

The Capri Steak House is a Columbus staple and we’re glad we finally had a chance to make the trip to try their fish. Overall, we recommend this Fish Fry, but think it’s probably a bit too far out of the way to make the drive for unless you have a good reason. The classic supper club atmosphere is excellent and I could definitely see myself pulling up to the bar for one or ten, but while the fish is good, it’s not a draw on its own.
126 S Ludington Street
Columbus, WI 53925

(920) 623-4818