Fish Type: Bluegill Price: $14.00
Overall, I would highly recommend this Fish Fry.
| Fish Score: Excellent Potato Score: Excellent Tartar Score: Good Bread Score: Poor Miscellaneous Score: Good |  |
Comment: You could call it skepticism. You could call it reservation. Or you could just call it a straight-up desire to not go back. But whatever you call it Im glad we put it out of our minds. We were burned by Gates & Brovi once, and not very impressed on a second visit, but something told us there was more in store so we put our fears aside and gave them a third opportunity to prove themselves. Im sure glad we did. The third time was finally the charm we were waiting for.
Showing up anywhere at 6:30 on Friday night is a bit of a crapshoot, but we didnt have much choice this week. Even though there was plenty of parking on Monroe G&B was packed. We got a spot on the chalkboard list, and lucked into a couple open stools at the bar. The mutton-chopped bartender noticed our arrival and had drinks for us before you could say nice beard, buddy.
As predicted by the host we had a table in about 30 minutes, and sat down ready to chow. On our previous forays into the Gates & Brovi Fry cod was the only fish on the menu, but they recently added bluegill to the Friday offering which actually gave me a decision to make (although it was a pretty easy one since the cod was just so-so last time).
The bluegill took a good 15 minutes or so to fry, but it was scalding hot when it arrived and boy did it look impressive. There were nine fillets in total and each was simply marvelous. They were lightly coated in with a beautiful breading that enhanced the fish without overpowering it. It was an amazing balancing act, as the fish remained moist and supple with no rubbery textures or fishy flavors. It was literally almost perfect and pretty much took my breath away.
The glorious gill was ideally offset by G&Bs McDonalds-style French fries which were salty and delicious. There were easily enough of them to go blow for blow with the fish, but I was also fortunate enough to land a few more when my wife couldnt finish her small side of them (a whole basket full for $2.50). Score!
Not everything in life is perfect and the tartar in this Fish Fry proved that point. It was ample, but on the thin side as far as tartar is concerned. That said, it had a great zip, and my big paper cup was totally drained by the end.
Usually I consider the slaw supplementary to the fish, but this slaw was a showstopper on its own. It was fresh and crispy, had a perfect harmony of flavors, and was clearly homemade (nothing this good comes in a jar). It had to be some of, if not the, best in the whole city. You can take that to the bank.
With so much great stuff going on with this Fish Fry I was a little dismayed that there was no bread served with it. Had there been you would easily be talking Top 25 territory. It was just that good, just not that complete.
This was the Fish Fry I was hoping for the first time we stepped foot into Gates & Brovi, but alas it just wasnt meant to be at that point in time. Im glad we gave them a couple more cracks at it because they finally figured it all out. It really is a great little place and as kid-friendly as it gets for all you moms and dads out there who are hesitant to take the little ones out on Friday nights. Overall, we highly recommend this Fish Fry and cant wait to go back, which certainly isnt the tune we were singing after our previous visits.
gatesandbrovi.com
3502 Monroe Street
Madison, WI 53711
(608) 819-8988
