Fish Type: Lake Perch Price: $10.00
Overall, I would highly recommend this Fish Fry.
| Fish Score: Excellent Potato Score: Excellent Tartar Score: Excellent Bread Score: Good Miscellaneous Score: Good |  |
Comment: Things look different through different lenses. To this point weve only looked at Dexters through a lunchtime lens and really havent seen how the eastside eatery handles the dinner crowd. As you know, Friday Night Fish Fry is a far cry from its noon hour counterpart, and just because Dexters dominates lunch doesnt necessarily mean they can maintain their standards when things get gritty after the sun goes down. What better time for us to see how they handled the pressure than the first Friday of Lent 2012?
Jer and I arrived a little early, and as we expected, there was a wait. We put our name on the list, scored a couple stools at the bar and ordered a bucket of Rhinelander shorties. Apparently this beer choice wasnt hip enough for the ultra-cool bartender as we overheard him when he remarked to some other customers that it was, mass produced bullsh*t when they inquired as to what it was. He then went on to recommend a product from New Belgium (which is apparently anything but mass produced BS), and they gleefully gobbled up his suggestion. Whatever, fella we were here for the fish not the approval of some flat cap wearing bartender.
As we waited for the rest of the people in our group to show up we sucked down our BS beers and our name was called a couple times, but since everyone wasnt around we just had Nick (the owner) move us down the list. We watched as order after order of fish was fried - most of which was beer battered cod. A lot of walleye, and some perch made it through the oil too, but nowhere near the amount of cod which says something about its popularity. Eventually, the rest of our group showed up, the list was exhausted, and we got our table in the dining room - which was still pretty much full at a quarter-to-eight.
The waitress came around in due time and took our orders which we had ample time to deliberate over at the bar. Since the bluegill doesnt swim these waters during the winter I picked the perch, while Garrett chose the cod, and Jer feeling frisky went for the grilled lemon-pepper walleye. I have to say I was shocked by Jers choice, but eager to see what they had in store for him.
Dexters runs a smooth ship and we had our fish within 15 minutes of ordering even though the kitchen was still buzzing. As per usual the perch was delicious. The plate featured six average-sized fillets that some would describe as limp looking. The flaky little fillets featured Dexters signature pale and flaky breading which houses just enough spice to keep things interesting without overpowering the delicate fish.
Jers pan-fried lemon-pepper walleye looked superb as well, but reportedly featured quite a few bones to go along with its velvety texture and succulent spices. While I didnt try it, it wasnt for lack of want, but more the fact that he devoured every last bit with no problem.
A huge portion of Dexters brew fries covered the remainder of open real estate on my plate and were superb. While this amount of fries would be overwhelming for most, their crispy deliciousness kept me coming back for more until each and every one of the sublime spuds were gone. Mmm mmm mmm.
Dexters tartar hit the fat part of the bullseye, as the thick and creamy sauce gave the perch the boost it needed. The standard dinner roll also hit the target, as did Dexters latest take on coleslaw. This slaw shot had an overarching onion flavor, but was good, clean, and fresh - certainly a gallant effort if nothing else.
What can we say? Dexters dominated dinner just like they lord over lunch. The perch was exactly what we have come to expect, the fries were phenomenal, and everything else fell in line. Overall, we highly recommend this Fish Fry, no ifs, ands, or buts about it. Whether its lunch or dinner, Dexters just gets the job done. That is plain to see.
www.dexterspubmadison.com/
301 North Street
Madison, WI 53704
(608) 244-3535
